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Monthly Archives: September 2011
Postcard from Up North
When summer opens, I see how fast it matures, and fear it will be short; but after the heats of July and August, I am reconciled, like one who has had his swing, to the cool of autumn. ~ Ralph … Continue reading
Fried Cauliflower, and this time last year
I’m thinking a lot about culinary school this week, because it was exactly one year ago that I entered the professional program at Tante Marie’s Cooking School in San Francisco. I had just left my job of many years in … Continue reading
Ingredient: Cauliflower
You knew I had to come out with a vegetable this week after all of that meat. Does it surprise you that cauliflower turns up in Lebanese cuisine? It’s there, in virtually every Lebanese cookbook I own, as well as … Continue reading
Postcard from Up North
If you want to build a ship, don’t drum up people together to collect wood and don’t assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea. -Antoine de Saint-Exupery, author and … Continue reading
Baked Kibbeh: You say meatloaf, I say meatlove
We aren’t the only ones making kibbeh this week…David Tanis at the New York Times baked a kibbeh sahnee yesterday using a recipe from the Lebanese grandmother of a friend of his. He considers kibbeh a transformation of meat loaf, … Continue reading
Kibbeh Nayeh, the raw truth
I never knew I was eating raw meat. Or maybe it was just that I didn’t think that “raw” was something worth noting. I simply knew it was good, and that it was among a short list of dishes that … Continue reading
How to select and prepare meat for Lebanese Kibbeh
I don’t want to give you the wrong impression. I notice that many—ok, all—of the main course dishes I’ve served up here have involved red meat. It’s not that the Lebanese can’t make a meal without including beef or lamb…Lebanese … Continue reading
Postcard from Up North
This grand show is eternal. It is always sunrise somewhere; the dew is never all dried at once; a shower is forever falling; vapor is ever rising. Eternal sunrise, eternal sunset, eternal dawn and gloaming, on sea and continents and … Continue reading
Fried Eggs with Za’atar, and lessons from a restaurant kitchen
One of the benefits of going to culinary school is that you have an opportunity to work as an apprentice when you complete your program. Doing back-breaking work for free may not seem like much of an ‘opportunity’—as I was … Continue reading
Ingredient: Za’atar
The spices that flavor Lebanese cuisine all line up behind za’atar, the leader of the pack. This blend of dried thyme, sumac, and sesame seeds tastes of bold, citrus notes. Thyme gives za’atar its green color, sesame its toasty nuttiness, … Continue reading
Postcard from Up North
We call upon the waters that rim the earth, horizon to horizon, that flow in our rivers and streams, that fall upon our gardens and fields, and we ask that they teach us and show us the way. ~ Native … Continue reading
Lebanese Green Bean Stew (yahneh or lubieh) from the expert
By Peggy Abood, special to Rose Water & Orange Blossoms As the youngest of five in a Lebanese family, you get used to a certain amount of teasing especially when you have three older brothers and a precocious elder sister. … Continue reading
Technique: How to caramelize meat for stews and braises
I asked my sister, the yahneh expert, about the what cut of meat she likes to use in this Lebanese green bean stew. “I use leftover prime rib, or chuck roast that’s leftover or fresh,” she said. “The best yahneh … Continue reading
Ingredient: Green beans
I took a lot of flak preparing for this week’s post. That’s because the Lebanese green bean stew we are making, known as yahneh or lubieh, is my sister Peggy’s specialty. (yes, another Irish name. No explanation.) And just because … Continue reading
Postcard from Up North
“There shall be eternal summer in the grateful heart.” – Celia Thaxter (Wequetonsing garden, end of summer.)
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