Category Archives: Techniques

My Mom’s Best Pie Crust

Pie cooling under the window, Maureen Abood

Everyone who knows my mother knows that the hallmark of her character is grace. Pure grace. This is reflected in her face, her home, her kitchen, her conversations. And her pie. I love watching people taste my mom’s pie for … Continue reading

Posted in Stories and Recipes, Techniques | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 14 Comments

Technique: How to form dough balls

Ka'ik dough balls from dough, Maureen Abood

When pulling beautiful pieces of risen dough to form smaller balls, there is a technique involved to remove the folds that naturally occur in the dough from being pulled and shaped. Those folds don’t bake properly and have to be … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Technique: Hard boiled eggs, and how to peel them clean

White eggs under the window, Maureen Abood

There are few more irritating moments in the kitchen for me than when a boiled egg doesn’t peel properly. You know what I’m talking about: The shell pulls off bits of egg along with it and what you end up … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , | 13 Comments

Technique: An easy way to sort lentils

Lentils sheet pan POST

Yes, we are talking about lentils. Chocolate will be on the docket again soon enough… It may seem like a step you can skip, sorting through the lentils before cooking them. But once you discover that not all that is … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Technique: How to temper chocolate (and ourselves)

Chocolate melt off spatula POST

Here’s the thing about chocolate: it’s a little more complicated than it seems. The more I’ve come to understand it, the more I get that we two are kindred spirits. My chocolate-making teacher, Chef Bob Hartwig at the French Pastry … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | 3 Comments

Technique: Tips for Making Caramel

Caramel in a bowl POST

Caramel is like the fraternal twin of chocolate when it comes to making the kind of sweet you cannot, and will not, resist. Caramelization—the toasting or deep-golden-browning—of just about anything you cook, from Brussels sprouts to nuts to bread, takes … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments

Homemade yogurt: straining for laban, labne, and labne preserved in oil

Labne balls with za'atar POST

Now that we’ve got down the basics for making our own yogurt, we’re going to take it to the next level. Your yogurt becomes its finest once it has been strained some (or quite a bit) to remove the whey … Continue reading

Posted in Stories and Recipes, Techniques | Tagged , , , , , | 18 Comments

Homemade yogurt: a few tips about ingredients

Laban with thermometer POST

Once you get the hang of making your own yogurt (a.k.a.: laban), you will do it without thinking. You’ll do it as a matter of course, the same way you start the week off with all kinds of habits. While … Continue reading

Posted in Ingredients, Techniques | Tagged , , , , , | 5 Comments

How to make your own pumpkin puree

Pumpkin puree 2 POST

The whole time I’ve been working with fresh pumpkin in the kitchen recently, I’ve been astonished that I’ve never done it before. We are traditional pumpkin pie eaters at Thanksgiving, and though my mother would like to have it more … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , , | 5 Comments

Technique for a warm bowl of soup

warming bowl POST

I suppose this isn’t so much about how to warm a bowl for soup as it is a persuasion to warm a bowl. At Tante Marie’s, it was a student’s job every day to warm the bowls and plates for … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Technique: How to brown butter

Brown butter hardened POST

If I could write a single culinary aria and sing it all the rest of my days, that love song would be to brown butter. It’s a bold statement, given the many contenders that are deserving of such devotion. It’s … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Postcard from Up North

Deer at Birchwood POST

Laughter is the shortest distance between two people. ? Victor Borge (There were three, and they had just run out in front of me across M-119. They smiled for the camera, we laughed together, and then they moved on.)

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Technique: How to core and peel an apple

Apple halves with knife POST

This week I’m asking a favor. This favor involves some work, the work of coring and peeling a whole lot of apples. I wish the fruit would just split apart with ease like an apricot so we could mindlessly slip … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Technique: How to Slice, Roast, and Peel a Red Pepper

Roasted red pepper POST

The seeds in a pepper are annoying on lots of levels. In a hot pepper, they are the heat. You can love them or leave them. In a neutral pepper, they are not useful at all. When you cut your … Continue reading

Posted in Techniques | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Technique: How to slow roast tomatoes

Roasted romas POST

The slow roasting of tomatoes is something that I’ve admired for some time…but never did myself until recently. I remember the role of the tomatoes at a particular lunch at a little café on Washington and Fillmore Streets in San … Continue reading

Posted in Stories and Recipes, Techniques | Tagged , , | 5 Comments