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Category Archives: Techniques
Technique: How to form dough balls
When pulling beautiful pieces of risen dough to form smaller balls, there is a technique involved to remove the folds that naturally occur in the dough from being pulled and shaped. Those folds don’t bake properly and have to be … Continue reading
Technique: Hard boiled eggs, and how to peel them clean
There are few more irritating moments in the kitchen for me than when a boiled egg doesn’t peel properly. You know what I’m talking about: The shell pulls off bits of egg along with it and what you end up … Continue reading
Technique: An easy way to sort lentils
Yes, we are talking about lentils. Chocolate will be on the docket again soon enough… It may seem like a step you can skip, sorting through the lentils before cooking them. But once you discover that not all that is … Continue reading
Posted in Techniques
Tagged French lentils, green lentils, lentil salad, Lentils, techniques
1 Comment
Technique: How to temper chocolate (and ourselves)
Here’s the thing about chocolate: it’s a little more complicated than it seems. The more I’ve come to understand it, the more I get that we two are kindred spirits. My chocolate-making teacher, Chef Bob Hartwig at the French Pastry … Continue reading
Posted in Techniques
3 Comments
Technique: Tips for Making Caramel
Caramel is like the fraternal twin of chocolate when it comes to making the kind of sweet you cannot, and will not, resist. Caramelization—the toasting or deep-golden-browning—of just about anything you cook, from Brussels sprouts to nuts to bread, takes … Continue reading
Posted in Techniques
Tagged caramel, chocolate, chocolate-caramel pecan tart, Dessert, Pastry, pecans
6 Comments
Homemade yogurt: straining for laban, labne, and labne preserved in oil
Now that we’ve got down the basics for making our own yogurt, we’re going to take it to the next level. Your yogurt becomes its finest once it has been strained some (or quite a bit) to remove the whey … Continue reading
Posted in Stories and Recipes, Techniques
Tagged Laban, laban khiyar, Labne, labneh, yogurt, yogurt cheese
18 Comments
Homemade yogurt: a few tips about ingredients
Once you get the hang of making your own yogurt (a.k.a.: laban), you will do it without thinking. You’ll do it as a matter of course, the same way you start the week off with all kinds of habits. While … Continue reading
Posted in Ingredients, Techniques
Tagged Laban, laban khiyar, Labne, labneh, yogurt, yogurt cheese
5 Comments
How to make your own pumpkin puree
The whole time I’ve been working with fresh pumpkin in the kitchen recently, I’ve been astonished that I’ve never done it before. We are traditional pumpkin pie eaters at Thanksgiving, and though my mother would like to have it more … Continue reading
Posted in Techniques
Tagged Dessert, Halloween, pumpkin cake, pumpkin puree, pumpkins, Thanksgiving
5 Comments
Technique for a warm bowl of soup
I suppose this isn’t so much about how to warm a bowl for soup as it is a persuasion to warm a bowl. At Tante Marie’s, it was a student’s job every day to warm the bowls and plates for … Continue reading
Technique: How to brown butter
If I could write a single culinary aria and sing it all the rest of my days, that love song would be to brown butter. It’s a bold statement, given the many contenders that are deserving of such devotion. It’s … Continue reading
Postcard from Up North
Laughter is the shortest distance between two people. ? Victor Borge (There were three, and they had just run out in front of me across M-119. They smiled for the camera, we laughed together, and then they moved on.)
Technique: How to core and peel an apple
This week I’m asking a favor. This favor involves some work, the work of coring and peeling a whole lot of apples. I wish the fruit would just split apart with ease like an apricot so we could mindlessly slip … Continue reading
Technique: How to Slice, Roast, and Peel a Red Pepper
The seeds in a pepper are annoying on lots of levels. In a hot pepper, they are the heat. You can love them or leave them. In a neutral pepper, they are not useful at all. When you cut your … Continue reading
Posted in Techniques
Tagged muhammara, red bell peppers, red peppers, roasted red peppers
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Technique: How to slow roast tomatoes
The slow roasting of tomatoes is something that I’ve admired for some time…but never did myself until recently. I remember the role of the tomatoes at a particular lunch at a little café on Washington and Fillmore Streets in San … Continue reading




